Bathing :
If you bathe your dog more than once a month, aloe-based shampoos, coat conditioners, foods, and supplements with Omega fatty
acids help maintain coat oils and skin health. Before bathing, clear any mats or tangles from the coat. Teach her/him to stand in the
tub, then add warm water. Soak to the skin, lather, then rinse thoroughly to prevent dull, sticky coat and dry skin. Take care to keep
water and soap out of eyes and ears and clean the face and the insides of ears with a sponge or wash cloth.
Daily Examination :
Check your puppy daily to make sure there are no cuts, sores, fleas, rashes, bumps, or ticks  in her coat or dirt in her ears. Remove
fleas with a fine-toothed comb and drop them into a container of soapy water. Remove embedded ticks with tweezers or protected
fingers and drop them in a vial of alcohol. (Grab the tick body, rock it back and forth, then pull firmly.) Carefully remove grass, seed
casings, or thorny twigs with your fingers or a comb. Check your puppy's feet and ears and look at his or her teeth. Owners should be
aware before purchase that a long-coated dog will require grooming throughout its life.
Skin :
Healthy skin is a consideration for a well-groomed dog, healthy skin begins with a good diet. If your dog does well on the food you
buy, if his skin and coat are healthy, if he has energy and enjoys life, if he is maintaining his expected weight, if his intestines are
working well, if the food is highly digestible and leaves little manure to clean up, you should keep doing what your doing. But if your
dog's energy level is low or his coat is dull and his skin dry and itchy or sore, you should consider switching the diet or consult your
veterinarian.
Grooming is essential for healthy skin and for making you aware of any problems that may be developing. Flea allergies can cause
severe skin problems, so be sure to examine your dog daily during flea season. Contact allergies can also cause skin to break out.
Irritated skin leads to scratching, which can open the skin to staphylococcus infections.  Skin irritations and infections can show up
overnight, so keep a close eye on the situation.  If you should find any fleas on your dog, you should treat your house as well.
Ears :
All dogs should have their ears checked periodically.  Infected ears can lead to other complications.
Feet :
Dogs should have their toenails cut every two to three weeks. Teach your dog to stand or sit still and offer his paw, clip a tiny bit off
each nail a couple of days in a row, or have the vet or groomer do it.   Dog nails have a quick that can be seen as a darkening of light-
colored nails but is invisible on dark nails. The quick has a nerve and blood supply; nicking the quick not only hurts the dog, it causes
profuse bleeding, so keep a quick stop product around or use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. Seeds from some grasses can
stab into the pad, pebbles can get stuck, chemicals used on lawns can burn, and fungus can cause irritation, which leads to licking,
which can lead to hot spots and infections.
Choosing a Groomer :
If you decide to use a groomer instead of doing it yourself….
Many veterinarians have incorporated grooming into their clinics, so you can start there. If your veterinarian is not associated with a
groomer, he may have a list of recommended groomers.   
If the shop is part of a boarding kennel, find out what vaccinations they require. If routine vaccinations, including Bordatella, are not
required, you should not take your dog there.
Malamutes require shade and shelter from the elements when outdoors. You must always have fresh water available for
them.
This is an active breed which requires daily exercise. If this is not available, your Malamute should be taken for daily walks. Lack of
exercise, play and attention leads to a bored Malamute who may choose alternative means of entertainment; including chewing some
favored articles.
Your dog should be taught at two to four months of age how to walk on a loose lead, to come when called and to stay. These
commands will make him or her a more welcome member of the family and may even save his life.
Malamutes are generally “people dogs”; and they enjoy the company and affection of a family. They are good with children, but
children must be taught how to handle and behave around them, especially puppies. A Malamute grows quickly in the first year, and
the dog's joints and bones are still soft and susceptible to permanent damage if treated too rough. Also, behavior patterns (begging,
taking food, biting — even in play) are established in the first year, and these can be difficult to correct later on. Children and puppies
should be supervised together and should be taught to respect each other.
Grooming :
The Malamute's dense, oily coat stays relatively clean under normal conditions. After a romp in the mud, it is not uncommon to see a
Malamute cleaning his coat. Your Malamute will require regular combing and brushing for the benefit of cleaning the coat, stimulating
the secretion of natural skin oils, removing dead hair, and examining for parasites or skin irritations.
A Malamute will “blow coat” (shed out his old hair in preparation for new growth) twice a year. A steel-toothed comb, a rake or wire-
bristled brush will help to remove dead hair.
Bathing is seldom required, and the regular grooming will keep the dog's coat clean and beautiful. Grooming  should be started with
puppies. Gentle grooming for short periods of time will accustom your puppy to a routine.
SHEDDING:
Malamutes are seasonal shedders.  This means once or twice a year they will "blow" out their coat.  It is important to comb them often
to get the dead and old coat out for the health of the skin and so the dog will look presentable.  If the coat is not combed out, it will
have the appearance of "molting" as seen on zoo animals during season changes (clumps of dead hanging fur remain in the coat and
become dirty and matted).   "Woolies" will not drop their coat - it will mostly all remain on the dog so it's even more important to comb
often and deeply to avoid matts.  

Malamutes are a double coated breed and will often only shed the soft undercoat. The shedding of guard hair usually happens only
in the spring.  The fall shed is normally just undercoat.  The density of coat will depend upon the climate where the dog lives.   Males
will not blow their coat as often or as completely.  There is often a massive shed when the puppy reaches adulthood at about 1 1/2 - 2
years of age.  This is when he is shedding his puppy coat for his adult coat.  

The best way to avoid some heavy shedding is to spay or neuter, comb regularly and feed a quality food.  Spaying eliminates
shedding caused by the hormonal changes of the female going into season.  Combing at least three times a week is necessary to
keep the coat clean, good smelling and looking nice.  A warm bath when the coat is close to coming out will often help it along so the
dog is not shedding for as long a period. A high-speed blower can blow out most of the loose coat as you dry.  Be sure not to turn the
heat up too high or keep the dryer in one spot for very long.  Dry thoroughly after a bath to prevent hotspots. Even if the surface
feels dry, it may not be completely dry underneath and hotspots can develop in areas that remain damp.
Start with puppies :
*Good grooming habits begin with your puppy.
*All puppies should be taught to sit, stand, or lie down.
Summer Pet Care Tips
Heart worm disease:
Heart worms (Dirofilaria immitis) are parasites
Heart worm disease in dogs, but are unaware that cats may also contract the parasite (Heart worm disease was reported in cats in 38
states by the American Heart worm Society); in fact, cats infested with Heart worms often have more severe clinical signs than dogs and
a poorer prognosis. Have your dog or cat tested for the presence of Heart worms by your veterinarian, and ask about Heart worm
preventatives. Treatment for this disease can be expensive and risky for your pet prevention is easy and inexpensive. The fact that your
dog only goes outside to urinate and defecate, and the fact that your cat does not go outside at all, does not eliminate the risk of
disease. Mosquitoes are everywhere!
Fleas:
Normally only adult fleas live on pets, and often they remain there only long enough to feed. Eggs may be laid on the pet, but usually fall
off the pet into the environment where conditions are right for them to develop (through a multistage life cycle) into adult fleas. As a
result, it is possible to have a substantial flea problem although you have only identified a few or no fleas on your pet. Egg and larval
stages can survive in your home all year and in your yard from spring through late fall (all year in warmer climates). Biting and scratching
on the lower back, tail, and abdomen are the most common signs of flea infestation and a dermatitis will often flare up in these areas.
Flea control involves treatment of the pet and the environment by means of shampoos, sprays, dips, "spot-ons," powders, oral
medications, and collars. Your veterinarian can recommend the most appropriate flea prevention/treatment program for your pet. Fleas
carry tapeworms, so be sure to have your veterinarian check your pet for these intestinal parasites as well.
Ticks:
Yet another parasite that is a common problem during the warmer months. Ticks are not only an irritant and nuisance to your pet, but
may transmit several debilitating diseases, such as Lyme disease, babesiosis, and ehrlichiosis. Many flea prevention/treatment products
will also help with control of ticks. Your veterinarian can help you recognize ticks and show you the proper way to remove them from your
pet (if you simply try to remove the tick by pulling, you may leave its mouth parts embedded within your pet's skin). Owners whose dogs
have substantial exposure to ticks (eg, sporting dogs, dogs that go camping, and those spending time in forest preserves or woods)
should also ask their veterinarian's advice about the appropriateness of a vaccination for Lyme disease.

Housing and Travel:
Soaring temperatures are no more comfortable for dogs and cats than they are for people. Heat prostration is a common cause of
summer illness that can, and does kill many pets each year. If your pet spends a substantial part of its day outside, be sure that you
provide a cool, shady spot for it to escape the hot summer sun and plenty of cool, clean water. A sheltered area must also be available
so that the pet can escape summer storms. Be sure that areas in which pets are housed are secure and that pets cannot run into busy
streets, fall into deep window wells, or become trapped within or under lawn equipment. Some of the worst summer tragedies involve pets
that are left in vehicles in the sun with the windows partially or completely rolled up. Temperatures inside a car rapidly climb to more than
100 F and can cause death sometimes in as little as 10 minutes! If you need to leave your pet in a car for any period of time, please do
the pet and yourself a favor and leave the pet at home. When traveling with your pet, call ahead to make sure the pet will be welcome at
any hotels or homes where you intend to stay. Travel from state to state usually requires a health certificate for each pet, which has
been signed by a veterinarian. Travel outside of the country often requires that the pet be quarantined for a specified period of time, so
be sure to check restrictions in the country to which you will be traveling. Remember that sometimes the best solution for everyone is to
make arrangements for someone to watch the pet in your home, or to bring the pet to a boarding facility designed to provide it with the
special care it needs.
Pesticides and lawn care products:
Many of these products are potentially toxic to pets. Be sure to store these items where pets have no access to them. After treating
lawns and outside areas, restrict pets from these areas until exposure danger has passed. Remember that many types of summer
foliage (among them hydrangea, wisteria, delphinium, foxglove, privet hedge, and monkshood) can be toxic to pets as well, so do your
best to prevent your pets from "dining out."
The following is a list of poisonous plants from the National
Animal Poison Control Center.

Aloe Vera                                                  Amarylillis
Apple (seeds)                                            Apple Leaf Croton
Apricot (pit)                                               Asparagus Fern
Autumn Crocus                                          Avocado (fruit and pit)
Azalea                                                       Baby's Breath
Bittersweet                                                Bird of Paradise
Branching Ivy                                            Buckey
Buddist Pine                                              Caladium
Calla Lily                                                   Castor Bean
Ceriman                                                    Charming Dieffenbachia
Cherry (seeds and wilting leaves)                Chinese Evergreen
Christmas Rose                                          Cineraria
Clematis                                                    Cordatum
Corn Plant                                                 Cornstalk Plant
Croton                                                      Cuban Laurel
Cutleaf Philodendron                                  Cycads
Cyclamen                                                  Daffodil
Devil's Ivy                                                 Dieffenbachia
Dracaena Palm                                          Dragon Tree
Dumb Cane                                               Easter Lily (especially cats)
Elaine                                                       Elephant Ears
Emerald Feather                                        English Ivy
Fiddle-leaf fig                                            Florida Beauty
Foxglove                                                   Fruit Salad Plant
Geranium                                                 German Ivy
Giant Dumb Cane                                      Glacier Ivy
Gold Dieffenbachia                                    Gold Dust Dracaena
Golden Pothos                                           Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy
Heartland Philodendron                              Hurricane Plant
Indian Rubber Plant                                   Janet Craig Dracaena
Japanese Show Lily (especially cats )          Jeusalem Cherry
Kalanchoe                                                 Lacy Tree Philodendron
Lily of the Valley                                        Madagascar Dragon Tree
Marble Queen                                            Marijuana
Mexican Breadfruit                                     Miniature Croton
Mistletoe                                                   Morning Glory
Mother-in Law's Tongue                              Narcissus
Needlepoint Ivy                                         Nephytis
Nightshade                                                Oleander
Onion                                                       Oriental Lily (especially cats)
Peace Lily                                                  Peach (wilting leaves and pits)
Pencil Cactus                                             Plumosa Fern
Poinsettia (low toxicity)                              Poison Ivy
Poison Oak                                                Pothos
Precatory Bean                                          Primrose
Red Emerald                                              Red Princess
Red-Margined Dracaena                             Rhododendron
Ribbon Plant                                             Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and
leaves)
Saddle Leaf Philodendron                           Tree Philodendron
Sago Palm                                                Tiger Lily (especially cats )
Schefflera                                                 Swiss Cheese Plant
Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves) Taro Vine
Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia                         Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia
Silver Pothos                                             Weeping Fig
Spotted Dumb Cane                                   Yew Weeping Fig
String of Pearls                                          Yew
Striped Dracaena
Sweetheart Ivy
Satin Pothos
Spay/Neuter:
There are numerous benefits of performing this surgery at six months of age. Unspayed females are subject to mammary and ovarian
cancer. 'In order to prevent mammary cancer she must be spayed prior to her first heat cycle. Later in life, an unspayed female may
develop a pyometra (an infected uterus), which is definitely life. threatening.
Spaying is performed under a general anesthetic and is an easy operation. The surgery removes the ovaries and uterus. It is important
to remove all the ovarian tissue. If some is left behind, she could remain attractive to males. In order to view the ovaries, a reasonably
long incision is necessary. An ovariohysterectomy is considered major surgery.

Neutering the male at a young age will inhibit some characteristic male behavior that owners frown upon. I have found that males will not
hike their legs and mark territory if they are neutered at six months of age. Also neutering at a young age has hormonal benefits,
lessening the chance of hormonal aggressiveness.

Surgery involves removing the testicles but leaving the scrotum. If there should be a retained testicle, then he definitely needs to be
neutered before the age of two or three years. Retained testicles can develop into cancer. Un-neutered males are at risk for testicular
cancer, perineal fistulas, perianal tumors and ---'" fistulas and prostatic disease.

Intact males and females are prone to housebreaking accidents. Females urinate frequently before, during and after heat cycles, and
males tend to mark territory if there is a female in heat. Males may show the same behavior if there is a visiting dog or guests.
Feeding your Adult Malamute
Dog food companies have truly become the experts on canine nutritional needs. A brand name dry food will contain
all the nutritional needs of the dog,possibly with the exception of fats. Polyunsaturated fats (one tablespoon) will
supplement this requirement. If changing brands of dog food, do not suddenly substitute with the new food. Instead,
gradually add increasing amounts of the new food with the old until the change is complete.
Table scraps are not a suitable diet and should not be used to constitute a whole meal, though they may be added in
small amounts, approximately 10%, to the dog's dinner. The amount of food each dog requires is determined by size,
age, and level of activity. Young puppies are usually fed three times a day, while an adult needs only one meal a
day. Despite their size, an adult Malamute has modest dietary needs.
** Its a good idea to feed your Malamute two small meals to lessen the chance of bloat, a tragedy which can affect all
large, deep chested breeds. Provide plenty of fresh water at all times, especially in warm weather, and remember to
clean all food and water bowls daily.
Dog Chew Toys
Puppies chew when they are teething or bored and older dogs chew mostly out of boredom. Puppies should not be
discouraged about chewing. This is one of the ways they explore the world (through their mouth) so give them
several chew toys to choose from.
Kongs
It is a bounce toy, that you can fill with you dog's favorite treat, biscuits, peanut butter, cheese, etc., and it will give
your dog hours of chewing fun and exercise. Also while your dog tries to get all the goodies you have stuffed into his
Kong. Kongs are made of natural, puncture resistant, Ultraflex rubber and come in all sizes to accommodate all dogs.
Stuffed Kongs are a great diversion for many puppies when you leave them alone for awhile. Usually they get pretty
tired and fall asleep after using all their energy to get the "stuff" out.
Nylabones
Nylabones are great for dogs especially when your puppy is teething. They come in all sizes and flavors and last a
long time.
Rawhide
Checking with your vet is always a good idea. Pressed rawhide sticks dissolve quickly in their stomachs.
Braided Rope Toys
Braided rope toys can help your puppy through his chewing phase. A word of warning though, don't let your dog eat
the rope. It could be harmful to your puppy The rope can get twisted in your dogs intestines which you can imagine
would not be pleasant.
Pig ears and calf hooves are okay occasionally but once again we recommend you ask your vet.
Feeding Your Alaskan Malamute Puppy
Puppies require nearly double the amount of nutrients per pound of food than do older dogs. Puppies need higher
levels of nutrients that are not available in regular dog food. Because of their special nutritional needs, your puppy
should only receive puppy food for the first year. Most dog food manufacturers offer a special formula for puppies
that is higher in protein and enriched with the fat soluble and water soluble vitamins, minerals, fats and other
essentials your growing puppy needs.
Feeding:
For the first few days, it is a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of puppy food and use the
same feeding schedule the puppy was on before he came to you. Then you can slowly start using the food you have
chosen.  Mix 25% of the new with 75% of the old for several days. Then make it 50-50 for several days, then 75%
new to 25% old.
Type of foods:
We never recommend canned food or the semi-moist fake meat burgers. Canned foods are normally higher in
calories and fat and are usually 80 to 83 per cent water.  The semi-moist foods are about 55% water and use high
salt or sugar levels for preservation. Puppies don't need the salt and sugar.
Dry foods are only 9 to 11 percent water and are made of the same quality ingredients as the other types. They are
more economical, easier to use and better for your dog.
Dogs on dry foods typically have fewer intestinal upsets. They have fewer problems with unwanted weight gain. We
see no advantage as far as hair coat or skin quality is concerned with those on canned foods. Probably the most
important advantage of using dry foods and feeding them dry is that the abrasive action of eating them is good for
the dog's teeth and gums. Dog's that constantly eat any of the softened foods always have more dental problems
ranging from tarter and plaque build up, abscesses, tooth loss and gum disease. Any or all of these cause bad
breath.
Dry food is the only food choice that helps control plaque while it is being eaten. It's also the only food that helps
satisfy your puppy's need to chew.
Feeding your puppies  from the table teaches them the bad habit of begging and may make house training more
difficult for you.

Table scraps should never account for more than 10% of your mature dog's diet. No chocolate, no bones that
splinter easily, and keep your dog away from high-fat, greasy foods.

Cow's milk:
We consider milk just another table scrap. Cow's milk has the sugar lactose. Dogs do not have the enzyme lactase
that is necessary to digest it. That is why they often develop diarrhea or softer stools when given it. Most humans
produce this digestive enzyme. Those that don't are said to suffer from milk intolerances or allergies. When you see
milk or milk by-products listed as ingredients in pet foods, lactose bacteria have been used to break down the sugar
into easier digestible forms. Dogs do not need fresh milk.
Feeding schedule:
* You should not leave food out for the puppy so that it can eat it whenever it wants. You need to be there for the
feedings because you want the puppy and its entire body on a set schedule. This is best accomplished by feeding
the pup what it will eat at specific times on a specific schedule.
* Puppies under six months of age should be fed three times daily; between six and twelve months old, two times
daily; and once per day after twelve months of age. * Puppies maturing into adults will naturally decrease the
number of feedings per day on their own.
* By feeding on a set schedule, the dog will then go to the bathroom on a more set schedule and make house
training easier and faster.
Make it a habit to give the puppy some quiet time after the meal. Don't let the children romp and play with it for the
first hour to an hour and a half after eating. This can lead to some stomach upsets that can sometimes be very
serious. The puppy will probably need to go to the bathroom, however.
Amounts to feed:
Place an ample amount of food down for them and then after 10 to 15 minutes it is picked up. You'll soon learn to
judge how much they need and, depending on how fast they clean it up, when they need more. Remember to have
water available with or immediately following the meal.
The growth rates and appetites of young animals on a good quality food are primarily dictated by their genetics.
Don't try to make your dog grow faster than it should or into something it isn't. This will only cause problems.
Artificially accelerated growth leads to bone and joint disorders. Feed them the amounts they want and let their
bodies dictate their needs.
Treats:
Treats should never account for more than 10% of your puppy's caloric intake Your puppy's food is its sole source
for the nutrition it needs so don't "fill up" your puppy on treats before meal time.
Liver products are great treats because they provide nutrients your puppy is unlikely to obtain from any other food
source.
Hard chew treats keep your puppy entertained and improve dental health by exercising the gums and scraping the
teeth. It also satisfies your teething pup's need to chew.
Treats can be used during training to reward good behavior, but be careful not to overdo it.
Rawhide bones:
Pet owners have a lot of questions about rawhide. Whether or not chewing rawhide is healthy for puppies. The
chewing of rawhide has the beneficial effect of removing plaque from the animals' teeth and keeping them cleaner.
This is significant because periodontal disease is a real problem in many adult dogs. It will not only satisfy your pet's
natural urge to chew, it will also help keep him healthy.
Water
Puppies may seem to drink large quantities of water. They need it and it cannot be deprived of it. A dog can starve
and lose almost all of its body fat and half of its protein mass (muscle) and still survive. However, if this dog loses
15% of its body water, it will die. Water is the most important nutrient of all.
For dogs of any age that eat dry food, water will be needed to rehydrate it in their stomachs for digestion. Puppies
also need more water per pound than adults do because they are growing. Growth comes through very active
metabolism at the cellular level. These processes produce many wastes and by-products that are excreted into the
blood. It requires plenty of water to carry these substances to and be flushed through the kidneys. It is okay to
schedule when your puppy drinks, but on a daily basis you must allow them to consume what they want and need.
Providing fresh water is important.
This greatly reduces the risk of disease and therefore keeps your pet happy and healthy.
Care, Grooming & Feeding Your Malamute
Copyright © 2005- - Elizabeth Chandler - Missouri Malamutes - Pucky Huddle Pups Farm
Alaskan Malamute Puppies
Missouri Malamutes
Jeff and Beth Chandler ~ Viburnum, MO 65566
573.743.3507  ~  573.604.1290
beth@missourimalamutes.com